North Texas Bermudagrass Lawn Schedule

January

If you didn’t apply pre-emergent in the fall, late is better than never. Spec Flo is a good option. If you get green-looking “grass” this time of year, it’s probably poa annua, better known as annual bluegrass. You can spray this with Certainty if you want to kill it. It dies by itself come the summer heat if you prefer to not worry. However, they will release seeds and come back worse next year. They also leave holes in your lawn when they die.

As for your soil, you should do a soil test, and then drop any pH adjuster. In North Texas, you’ll probably need sulfur to lower PH. Lime increases and is not as commonly needed in the clay. Get sulfur from Lowe’s, Home Depot, or preferably SiteOne. If you plan to drop something for pH, consider doing the soil test before. Your test won’t read correctly if you do a soil test 1-3 months after putting down sulfur.

February

Continuation of what you didn’t do in January. I would start thinking about ordering a pre-emergent as sometimes certain brands have inventory issues. SpecFlo is good in the fall, but in the spring, you can use cheaper stuff. Prodiamine is great.

Once your soil hits 55 degrees, you’ll apply your spring pre-emergent. It normally doesn’t happen in February, but in 2024 it did.

March

It’s time to start watching the soil temperature if you aren’t already. Although this calendar is grouped by month, the exact time of applications really is best if you follow soil temperature. You can get your own meter, look it up online, or if you’re in DFW, you can just the 10-year average chart.

Summer weeds germinate when soil temperature (4 inches down) reaches 55 degree for 3 or more days. Historically, the average has been March 1st. However, if Feb is warm, this can easily shift. Applying early is better than late. Split applications are the best if you don’t mind doing it 2 or 3 times. Do half the amount say mid Feb and then another half 45-60 days later. This will extend coverage right into summer. The label of your pre-emergent will tell you the exact waiting time between split apps – my numbers are just estimations based on some pre-emergents I’ve recently used.

Once you see some green, you can scalp and bag your lawn to remove the brown grass and encourage growth.

April

You want to put down nitrogen when the forecast is starting to look warm. If you see your lawn starting to green up, or other bermuda lawns in the area, then you hit it with nitrogen once your lawn is about 50% green. Bermudagrass loves nitrogen.

Apply 0.5 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 sqft. Check the percentage of your fertilizer. I like to use 10-10-10 for a balance, or ammonium sulfate (AS) 21-0-0. AS is great because it helps lower pH. So you can feed nitrogen while fixing your pH which will increase absorption. Run your sprinklers a bit after nitrogen application, or turn on rain notifications on your phone and put it down before rain.

Now is a good time to apply grub prevention. If you don’t understand the lifecycle of grubs and how the effective chemicals change based on season, be sure to read the grubs guide.

I’d also drop something for water absorption before it starts to dry up. This will help prep for a dry summer. Hydretain in liquid form is great for this.

May

With nitrogen down, you’re probably now starting to mow. I’ll skip over mowing because it’s pretty straight forward (mow low, frequent, consider using a reel mower, etc).

After 30 days from your last nitrogen application, do another. I would mix in something like a 10-10-10, once in the spring if you haven’t applied any yet. Something with a ratio of 4-1-2 is also good.

June

We’re cooking now. It’s heating up, so if you haven’t already, turn on the sprinklers. At least 1 inch of water per week. In March, April and May, you may be able to water minimally while relying on rain. If you want something that adjusts daily, get a smart controller. We’re in a tech age, so use tech. The Rachio is a good option. It adjusts for so many variables to ensure you’re doing it right.

I’d drop some more nitrogen (ammonium sulfate or urea).

July

This is lawn leveling season. When your grass is growing like crazy, this is your window to level your lawn. Avoid it any other time because you can suffocate your lawn and make it look brutal. Ask me how I know.

To level, scalp it, then drag sand around. There are videos on it and some articles on here about it.

Your sprinklers will need to be adjusted for this heat. Probably closer to 2 inches of water per week.

Similar to leveling, if you want to aerate, peak growing season is a good time to do that. Avoid doing it during the spring and fall when disrupting the pre-emergent barrier can have a pronounced effect.

Put down another spray of Hydretain.

Drop some more nitrogen.

August

I’d do my last nitrogen-only application here. Going forward, I’ll want to make sure the P and K are getting hit to prep for winter. Start thinking about pre-emergent. Prodiamine is fine, but the best is Specticle Flo. It’s expensive so look at splitting a bottle of the liquid with a couple buddies but it does well with poa annua.

September

First pre-emergent application is often now for me. You’re watching for soil temps to reach 70 degrees. If it hits 75, I like to put down my first application if I’m doing a split triple application. That’s often mid Sept. Otherwise wait a bit longer if you’re not doing triple app, as Sept is still early for a single app.

I’d put down a bit more fertilizer, but be mindful of it. Nitrogen can keep your lawn awake, if you want. I personally don’t, because it can lead to fungus and I like the peace in the winter. However, some people can mow year-round by applying nitrogen. If you have Christmas decor/lights on your lawn at Christmas, you will want to back of nitrogen so you don’t have to cut grass during December.

October

Second split app of pre-emergent.

November

Final pre emergent application. It’s late now and many varieties of bermudagrass are dormant, but this app will push you through the winter.

December

Watch football.


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