If you haven’t put down pre emergent yet, late is better than never. Spec Flo is a good option. If you get green-looking “grass” this time of year, it’s probably poa annua, better known as annual bluegrass. You can spray this with Certainty if you don’t want winter weeds. It dies by itself come the summer heat if you prefer to not worry. I don’t worry about it too much, because a bit of winter weeds help with erosion as my lot is sloped. I still do my best to surpress them so it’s easy come summer.
As for your soil, you should do a soil test, and then drop any pH adjustment. In North Texas, you’ll probably need sulfur to lower PH. Lime increases and is not as commonly needed in the clay. Get sulfur from Lowe’s, Home Depot, or preferably SiteOne. If you plan to drop something for pH, consider doing the soil test before. Your test won’t read right if you do a soil test 1-3 months after putting down sulfur.
Continue of what you didn’t do in January. I might start thinking about ordering a pre-emergent. SpecFlo is good in the fall, but in the spring, you can use cheaper stuff. Prodiamine is great.
It’s time to start watching the soil temperature. Although this calendar is grouped by month, the exact time of applications really is best if you follow soil temperature. You can get your own meter, look it up online, or if you’re in DFW, you can just this 10-year average chart.
Summer weeds germinate when soil temperature (4 inches down) reaches 55 degree for 3 or more days. Historically, the average has been March 1st. However, if Feb is warm, this can easily shift. Early is better than late. Split applications are the best if you don’t mind doing it 2 or 3 times. Do half the amount say mid Feb and then another half 45-60 days later. This will extend coverage right into summer. The label of your pre-emergent will tell you the exact waiting time between split apps – my numbers are just estimations based on some pre-emergents I’ve recently used.
You want to put down nitrogen when it’s starting to look warm. If you see your lawn starting to green up, or other bermuda lawns in the area, then you can wake it up with nitrogen. Bermudagrass loves nitrogen.
Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 sqft. Check the percentage of your fertilizer. I like to use 10-10-10 for a balance, or ammonium sulfate (AS) 21-0-0. AS is great because it helps lower pH. So you can feed nitrogen while fixing your pH which will increase absorption. Run your sprinklers a bit after nitrogen application.
I’d also drop something for water absorption. This will help prep for summer. Hydretain in liquid form is great for this.
With nitrogen down, you’re probably now starting to mow. I’ll skip over mowing because it’s pretty straight forward (mow low, frequent, consider using a reel mower, etc). You could do a scalp, but it’s not needed for a basic strong bermudagrass lawn. I’ll continue to recommend the products and applications.
After 30 days from your last nitrogen application, do another. I would mix in something like a 10-10-10, so that you get phosphorus and potassium this time around.
We’re cooking now. It’s heating up, so if you haven’t already, turn on the sprinklers. At least 1 inch of water per week. In March, April and May, you may be able to water minimally while relying on rain. If you want something that adjusts daily, get a smart controller. We’re in a tech age, use it. The Rachio is a good option. It adjusts for so many variables to ensure you’re doing it right.
I’d drop some more nitrogen.
This is lawn leveling season. When your grass is growing like crazy, this is your window to level your lawn. Avoid it any other time because you can suffocate your lawn and make it look brutal. Ask me how I know.
To level, scalp it, then drag sand around. There are videos on it and some articles on here about it.
Your sprinklers will need to be adjusted for this heat. Probably closer to 2 inches of water per week.
Put down another spray of Hydrtain.
Drop some more 10-10-10 or some more AS.
I’d do my last nitrogen-only application here. Going forward, I’ll want to make sure the P and K are getting hit to prep for winter. Start thinking about pre-emergent. Prodiamine is fine, but the best is Specticle Flo. It’s expensive so look at splitting a bottle of the liquid with a couple buddies but it does well with poa annua.
First pre-emergent application is often now for me. You’re watching for soil temps to reach 70 degrees. If it hits 75, I like to put down my first application if I’m doing a split triple application. That’s often mid Sept. Otherwise wait a bit longer if you’re not doing triple app, as Sept is still early for a single app.
I’d put down a bit more fertilizer, but be mindful of it. Nitrogen can keep your lawn awake, if you want. I personally don’t, because it can lead to fungus and I like the peace in the winter. However, some people can mow year-round by applying nitrogen. If you have Christmas decor/lights on your lawn at Christmas, you will want to back of nitrogen so you don’t have to cut grass during December.
Second split app of pre-emergent.
Final pre emergent application. It’s late now and many varieties of bermudagrass are dormant, but this app will push you through the winter.