How To Seed Bermuda Grass

Although seeding is often inferior to sodding for many homeowners, let’s talk about how to do it for those who have weighed the options and decided on seeding.

Seeded Bermuda grass varieties are often considered inferior to vegetative hybrids, but this is an oversimplification. The key distinction is that vegetative varieties are interspecific hybrids (crosses between different species), while seeded varieties are intraspecific — both are scientifically categorized as hybrids. There are outliers on both sides: for example, Celebration, a popular vegetative cultivar, is a natural selection “common” type, not an interspecific hybrid.

Modern seeded cultivars like Monaco and Rio are protected USDA PVP varieties bred as Syn-1 polycrosses — Monaco has 5 parents polycrossed, Rio has 9. These newer varieties can reach performance levels comparable to vegetative cultivars in color, density, leaf texture, and height of cut (sub-0.400″). Seeded hybrids have been used at the highest levels of sports turf and golf, including the Rose Bowl and Copa America 2024. Seeded varieties from big box stores, however, are inferior and not recommended.

It is also not recommended to overseed if you have existing Bermuda grass as it will not match.

Seeding is only 50% cheaper than sprigging — and peat moss is not necessary when seeding, which reduces cost further compared to sodding.

Before we start, we need to select the best time of year. Seeding warm season grass should be done in the springtime. According to a study, Bermuda grass shows the best cover after winter if seeded by July 15, achieving over 95% coverage.

Step 1: Kill Existing Lawn with 41% Glyphosate

To ensure your new Bermuda grass can establish without competition, begin by eradicating all existing vegetation. Apply a 41% glyphosate solution to the entire lawn area according to the label instructions. This non-selective herbicide will kill most green plants it contacts, so use it carefully. Apply it 3 times, 5-7 days apart so you are sure everything green is dead. Not everything will be killed one the first spray. Similar to painting a wall, multiple light coats is more effective than one heavy coat.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Clear the dead vegetation and debris off your lawn. Use a rake or a tiller to loosen the top 2-3 inches of soil. This process improves the soil’s aeration and texture, making it easier for grass roots to penetrate deeply and evenly. For better results, enrich the soil by mixing in organic compost or quality topsoil to enhance fertility. Be sure to screen the top soil as most top soil has chunks of debris which are not ideal in a lawn. You should also level your lawn now (which you can follow our guide, but you don’t need to use sand).

Step 3: Test and Amend Soil

Perform a soil test to check pH and nutrient levels; Bermuda grass thrives in a slightly acidic to neutral pH (5.8 to 7.0). Depending on the test results, amend the soil with lime to raise the pH or sulfur to lower it. Additionally, incorporate a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus to support root growth during the initial stages.

Step 4: Choose the Right Seed

Select a Bermuda grass seed that suits your local climate and lawn conditions. Consider factors such as drought tolerance, resistance to pests, and sun exposure. High-quality seeds ensure better germination rates and ultimately a denser, more resilient lawn. Top seeded cultivars include:

• Monaco — Syn-1 polycross (5 parents), USDA PVP protected
• Rio — Syn-1 polycross (9 parents), performs strongly in NTEP trials; Yukon is a specific parent
• Blackjack
• Yukon

Note: Princess 77 is no longer in production and is not recommended.

National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP) data

Important: When interpreting NTEP data, always apply the trial’s LSD (Least Significant Difference) value. Cultivars that fall within the LSD Top Group show no statistically significant difference in performance from one another. Comparing raw scores without accounting for LSD can give misleading results. See the NTEP website for full trial data.

Step 5: Seed the Lawn

Distribute the seeds evenly using a broadcast spreader. The recommended rate is 1 lb per 1,000 sq ft of raw (uncoated) seed, or 2 lbs per 1,000 sq ft if using coated seed (coatings are typically 50% of the total weight). After spreading the seeds, lightly rake the surface to ensure seeds make contact with the soil, which is essential for proper germination. Peat moss top dressing is not necessary and can be skipped to reduce cost.

In a study, Bermudagrass seeded at 49 kg/ha reached similar coverage as those seeded at higher rates of up to 146 kg/ha by 42 days after seeding.

• 49 kilograms per hectare converts to about 0.89 pounds per 1000 square feet.
• 146 kilograms per hectare converts to about 2.61 pounds per 1000 square feet.

Step 6: Water Properly

Immediately after seeding, water your lawn to keep the top inch of soil moist but not waterlogged. Aim to mist the area three to four times daily, avoiding runoff. If the seeds dry out, they die. Reduce the frequency to once daily when grass sprouts reach about an inch tall, transitioning to deeper, less frequent watering to encourage root growth.

Step 7: First Mowing and Feeding

When your Bermuda grass reaches about 3 inches in height, it’s time for its first trim. Mow the lawn, cutting no more than one-third of the grass blade length to avoid stressing the new plants. After mowing, apply a balanced lawn fertilizer to promote vigorous growth and establishment of the lawn.

You do not need to apply a high nitrogen fertilizer. In a study, it was found that regular nitrogen applications of 49 kg/ha monthly did not hasten establishment significantly, with coverage rates remaining consistent regardless of increased nitrogen levels.

Step 8: Ongoing Care

Maintain your Bermuda lawn by regular mowing, watering, and fertilizing according to the needs of the grass. Annual aeration and dethatching will prevent soil compaction and thatch buildup, respectively, ensuring your lawn remains healthy and attractive. Regular care also includes controlling weeds and pests as necessary.

Post-emergent quinclorac was found to be safe when applied at least a week after emergence, with coverage rates returning to near 100% within seven weeks.